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SPEED CLIMBING PRODIGY

🇨🇳 Zhao Yicheng

Broke the men's speed-climbing world record twice in twelve days, at 16

4.58s in Sanya • 4.54s in Wujiang • three-time youth world champion

On 28 April 2026, in the men's speed preliminaries at the 6th Asian Beach Games in Sanya, a 16-year-old making his first senior start climbed the standard fifteen-metre wall in 4.58 seconds. The time erased the world record of 4.64 seconds set by the American Sam Watson at the 2025 IFSC World Cup in Bali. Twelve days later, at the World Climbing Series stop in Wujiang, Zhao Yicheng lowered his own mark again to 4.54 seconds — becoming the first climber to hold the men's speed world record before his seventeenth birthday.

ZY🇨🇳Zhao Yicheng

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Zhao Yicheng is a Chinese speed climber, reported born on 8 June 2009. Speed climbing is the most measurable discipline in the sport: a single standardised fifteen-metre route, identical at every venue in the world, with the same hold layout since 2007. That standardisation is what makes its world record so unforgiving — every hundredth of a second is directly comparable across decades and continents.

He built his reputation on the youth circuit before he was old enough to compete as a senior. Between 2023 and 2025 he collected three gold medals at the World Climbing Youth Championship, establishing himself as the outstanding junior speed climber of his generation.

His senior debut came at the 6th Asian Beach Games in Sanya, on home soil. In the men's speed preliminaries on 28 April 2026 he recorded 4.58 seconds, taking the world record from Sam Watson, the Paris 2024 Olympic bronze medallist, whose 4.64 had stood since the 2025 World Cup in Bali. The time also set a new Asian record. He converted the run into gold at the Games.

Less than two weeks later, on 10 May 2026, he improved again. In the semi-final at the World Climbing Series meeting in Wujiang he stopped the clock at 4.54 seconds, taking a further four hundredths off his own world record and confirming that the Sanya run had not been an outlier.

The two performances placed him at the front of a discipline that has been getting steadily faster since it entered the Olympic programme, and made him the youngest holder of the men's speed record in the sport's history.

2023
First youth world titleWins gold at the World Climbing Youth Championship, the first of three youth world golds.
2026
World record on senior debutClocks 4.58 seconds in the men's speed preliminaries at the 6th Asian Beach Games in Sanya on 28 April, breaking Sam Watson's 4.64.
2026
Asian Beach Games goldConverts the record run into the men's speed gold medal at the Games.
2026
Lowers his own recordRuns 4.54 seconds in the semi-final at the World Climbing Series stop in Wujiang on 10 May.
PersonCountryMilestoneAge / Stat
Zhao Yicheng🇨🇳 ChinaMen's speed world record, 4.54s (Wujiang, May 2026)Age 16
Sam Watson🇺🇸 United StatesPrevious men's speed world record, 4.64s (Bali, 2025)Age 18
Arisa Trew🇦🇺 AustraliaYoungest Australian Olympic gold medallist, skateboardingAge 14
Sky Brown🇬🇧 United KingdomBritain's youngest Olympic medallist, skateboard parkAge 13

Zhao Yicheng matters because speed climbing is the rare discipline where a teenager's claim can be verified to the hundredth of a second on an identical wall anywhere on earth. Breaking the men's world record on a senior debut, and then breaking it again twelve days later, removed any argument that the first run was a fluke of conditions or timing. He is also the clearest evidence yet that the sport's Olympic era has compressed the age at which elite speed is reachable.

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