The name Gottex originated as a contraction of Gottlieb and textiles, marking the transition of a struggling Jaffa raincoat factory into an international swimwear powerhouse. Lea Gottlieb, born in 1918, founded this entity in 1956, eventually securing a dominant share of the Israeli market while exporting distinctive beachwear to eighty countries across the globe.
Wartime Survival and Migration
Born Lea Lenke Roth in Sajószentpéter, Hungary, she was raised by an aunt. Though she initially intended to study chemistry in Budapest, academic quotas against Jewish students blocked her path. During the German occupation, she faced constant danger while shielding her daughters, Miriam and Judith. She utilized floral bouquets as a disguise at checkpoints and concealed her family in pits to evade capture. After the liberation, she and her husband, Armin Gottlieb, operated a raincoat factory in Czechoslovakia before moving to Haifa in 1949.
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Upon arriving in Israel, the couple faced severe financial hardship. They secured a loan from acquaintances to launch a raincoat manufacturing business in Jaffa in 1949. Facing unexpected weather patterns that stalled demand for raincoats, Gottlieb sold her wedding ring to procure fabric and borrowed a sewing machine to pivot toward swimwear production. This makeshift start in a residential apartment evolved into Gottex, an enterprise that grew to operate from a larger facility on Hagdud Ha'ivri in Tel Aviv.
Design Philosophy and Global Expansion
As the chief designer for Gottex, Gottlieb drew aesthetic inspiration from the Mediterranean climate and the colors of the Israeli landscape, including the turquoise sea, golden sands, and pink Jerusalem stone. She frequently utilized floral motifs in her designs. By 1984, the company generated $40 million in sales, representing two-thirds of the domestic swimwear market. Her garments were worn by international figures such as Elizabeth Taylor, Brooke Shields, Nancy Kissinger, and Diana, Princess of Wales. By 1991, annual business reached $60 million.
Post-Acquisition Activity
In 1997, the Africa-Israel Group acquired Gottex. Gottlieb remained as the head of the design team for approximately one year before her departure. After the expiration of a non-compete clause, she re-entered the industry at age 85 by establishing a new design firm under her own name. She continued her professional activities until her death in Tel Aviv on 17 November 2012, at the age of 94.
Fast facts
- Born: 1918, Sajószentpéter, Hungary
- Died: 17 November 2012, Tel Aviv, Israel
- Company founded: 1956
- Occupations: Fashion designer, entrepreneur, industrialist
- Citizenship: Hungarian and Israeli
- Notable export markets: United States, Canada, Europe, Far East
Questions readers ask
What event influenced Gottlieb's design patterns?
Her collections were heavily inspired by flowers, which she associated with her survival during the Nazi occupation.
How did the Yom Kippur War affect the company?
In 1973, Gottlieb canceled a scheduled foreign tour to manage company operations and organized fashion shows for soldiers stationed at the front lines.
