On 31 July 1954, Lino Lacedelli reached the summit of K2, marking the first time the world's second-highest peak was successfully climbed. This achievement solidified his place in mountaineering history, though the expedition later became the focus of intense professional and personal scrutiny regarding the treatment of teammates during the final ascent.
Early Career in the Dolomites
Born in 1925 in Cortina d'Ampezzo, Lacedelli began climbing as a teenager under the guidance of Luigi Bibi Ghedina. His early reputation was built on speed and the technical mastery of difficult routes. In 1946, he joined the Cortina Squirrels, a prestigious local mountaineering club. He performed notable ascents such as the first ascent of the Southwest Face of Cima Scotoni with Guido Lorenzi and the fourth ascent of the Gabriel-Livanos Diedre on Cima su Alto.
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Selected by leader Ardito Desio for the Italian Karakoram expedition, Lacedelli joined Achille Compagnoni to secure the first ascent of K2 via the Abruzzi Ridge. Following their success, the mountain remained unclimbed until 1977. Upon his return to Italy, Lacedelli operated an outdoor shop called K2 Sports in his hometown of Cortina d'Ampezzo.
The Controversy of Camp IX
For decades, Lacedelli faced allegations from teammate Walter Bonatti, who claimed that he and porter Amir Mehdi were abandoned during a life-threatening bivouac while carrying oxygen for the summit team. Lacedelli maintained silence on the matter until 2004, when he published his book, K2: The Price of Conquest. In this work, he acknowledged that Bonatti and Mehdi were forced to spend a night in the open due to the unexpected placement of the high camp.
Legacy and Final Years
Lacedelli remained active in the climbing community and returned to K2 Base Camp in 2004. In 2005, he received Italy's highest honour, the Knight Grand Cross of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic. He also held the Medal of Representation of the President of the Italian Republic. Lacedelli died in his home at Cortina d'Ampezzo on 20 November 2009 at the age of 83.
Fast facts
- Born: 1925, Cortina d'Ampezzo
- Died: 20 November 2009, Cortina d'Ampezzo
- First Summit of K2: 31 July 1954
- Citizenship: Italy
- Key Expedition Leader: Ardito Desio
- Highest Honour: Knight Grand Cross of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic
Questions readers ask
Did Lino Lacedelli reach the summit of K2 first?
Yes, alongside Achille Compagnoni, he was part of the first team to successfully summit K2 on 31 July 1954.
What was the controversy regarding the 1954 K2 expedition?
Walter Bonatti accused Lacedelli and Compagnoni of abandoning him and Amir Mehdi during an open bivouac at 8100 meters, a claim Lacedelli eventually addressed in his 2004 book.
Achievements
- Medal of Representation of the President of the Italian Republic
- Knight Grand Cross of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic
- Recorded as explorer and mountaineer
