A photograph depicting David Kirby dying of AIDS in a Columbus hospital bed remains the most significant example of the advertising approach developed by Oliviero Toscani. Between 1982 and 2000, his work for the Benetton Group transformed commercial imagery, deliberately integrating themes of war, religion, capital punishment, and social conflict into the promotion of global fashion products.
Early Development and Training
Born in 1942 in Milan, Toscani was the son of Fedele Toscani, a professional who had founded the Publifoto agency and worked for the newspaper Corriere della Sera. Following this path, the younger Toscani pursued formal technical training at the Zurich University of the Arts. After graduating, he secured assignments with prominent international fashion publications, contributing photographic work to Elle, Vogue, L'Uomo Vogue, and Harper's Bazaar.
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Toscani served as Art Director for the Benetton Group for eighteen years. His campaigns frequently triggered public debate, such as the imagery using pig hearts labeled to represent racial categories. In the early 1990s, he co-founded the magazine Colors with American graphic designer Tibor Kalman. The publication adopted the tagline 'a magazine about the rest of the world,' focusing on multicultural themes while maintaining editorial independence from the parent fashion firm. He departed the company in 2000, only to return in 2018 when Luciano Benetton resumed his role as executive director.
Political and Social Advocacy
Beyond his commercial advertising work, Toscani engaged in various social projects and political activities. In 2003, he collaborated with the Regione Toscana to establish 'La Sterpaia,' a research facility dedicated to modern communication. He later pursued a seat in the Italian parliament as a candidate for the Rose in the Fist party during the 2006 general election. By 2018, he had become a member of the Democratic Party.
Later Career and Final Years
Toscani maintained a pattern of producing challenging imagery throughout his career, including a 2005 campaign for the brand Ra-Re featuring men in homosexual portrayals and a 2007 project addressing anorexia through photographs of Isabelle Caro. In 2020, he left the Benetton Group following public backlash regarding comments he made about the Ponte Morandi bridge collapse. Suffering from amyloidosis, Toscani was admitted to Cecina Hospital on 10 January 2025 and died three days later at the age of 82.
Fast facts
- Born: 1942, Milan, Italy
- Died: 13 January 2025, Cecina, Italy
- Education: Zurich University of the Arts
- Key Role: Art Director, Benetton Group (1982–2000)
- Magazine Co-founder: Colors
- Political Affiliation: Democratic Party (PD)
- Condition: Amyloidosis
- Religion: Atheism
Questions readers ask
What was the purpose of the magazine Colors?
Co-founded by Toscani and Tibor Kalman, the magazine operated with the slogan 'a magazine about the rest of the world' to explore multiculturalism independently from the Benetton Group.
Why was Toscani dismissed from the Benetton Group in 2020?
He was let go following a public outcry over his dismissive comments regarding the 2018 Ponte Morandi bridge collapse.
