The first successful ascent of the Matterhorn in July 1865 transformed the reputation of Edward Whymper, though the event remains defined by the fatal accident that occurred during the party’s descent. A multitalented figure, Whymper functioned simultaneously as an illustrator, photographer, and scientific collector, applying his technical training in wood engraving to document the topographical realities of high-altitude landscapes.
Early Alpine Expeditions
Born in London in 1840, Whymper initially traveled to the Alps in 1860 under commission to sketch scenery. These professional assignments quickly evolved into extensive mountaineering projects. By 1861, he had reached the summit of Mont Pelvoux, a success that helped clarify the previously poorly mapped geography of the Dauphiné Alps. Throughout the early 1860s, he targeted numerous peaks across the Mont Blanc massif and the Pennine Alps, completing first ascents of the Aiguille Verte and the Barre des Écrins, among others. During this period, he also developed a specialized tent design that remained in production for over a century.
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After eight unsuccessful attempts, Whymper led a party to the summit of the Matterhorn via the Hörnli ridge on 14 July 1865. The expedition team included Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Michel Croz, and Peter Taugwalder, accompanied by his son. While descending, Douglas Hadow slipped, triggering a fall that claimed the lives of Hadow, Croz, Hudson, and Douglas. The rope snapped between Taugwalder and Douglas, leaving Whymper and the two Taugwalders as the sole survivors. Investigation into the incident focused on the use of a weaker reserve rope during the descent, though no formal charges were substantiated.
Arctic and Andean Scientific Work
Beyond Europe, Whymper applied his logistical skills to Arctic and South American environments. An 1867 expedition to Greenland successfully demonstrated that sledges could be used to traverse the interior, resulting in a significant collection of fossil plants now held by the British Museum. In 1880, he traveled to Ecuador to investigate altitude sickness and the physical impact of low atmospheric pressure. His successful ascents included the first summits of Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, and several other peaks. His research concluded that altitude sickness resulted from internal organ pressure caused by gas expansion, a finding he detailed in his 1892 volume, Travels amongst the Great Andes of the Equator.
Fast facts
- Born: 27 April 1840, London
- Died: 16 September 1911, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc
- First ascent of the Matterhorn: 14 July 1865
- Award: Patron’s Medal (1892)
- Notable book: Scrambles Amongst the Alps (1871)
- Buried: Cimetière de Chamonix
Questions readers ask
What caused the deaths on the Matterhorn descent?
Douglas Hadow slipped, causing him to fall into Michel Croz and dragging Hudson and Douglas over the edge, causing the rope to snap.
What was Whymper's explanation for altitude sickness?
He attributed it to reduced atmospheric pressure limiting oxygen intake and the expansion of internal gases within the body.
Achievements
- Patron’s Medal
- Recorded as mountaineer, illustrator and explorer
