A $10,000 loan from his parents provided the starting capital for Dov Charney to establish his American Apparel brand in South Carolina in 1990. After dropping out of Tufts University to focus on manufacturing, he moved his operations to downtown Los Angeles by 1997, building one of the largest garment production facilities in the United States.
Formative Years in Montreal
Born in Montreal in 1969 to an architect father and artist mother, Charney attended St. George's School of Montreal and Choate Rosemary Hall in Connecticut. During his adolescence, he began importing Hanes and Fruit of the Loom t-shirts from the United States into Canada, transporting the goods via Amtrak trains. These early ventures into cross-border retail preceded his formal entry into the clothing manufacturing sector.
Rapid Retail Expansion
Following his move to California, Charney scaled American Apparel quickly. By 2001, the company achieved $12 million in sales. In 2003, he opened a flagship location in the Echo Park neighborhood of Los Angeles, followed by further expansion into New York and Montreal. The company achieved rapid growth, reaching 281 retail locations by 2009. By 2014, the firm reported record annual sales of $634 million.
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Charney’s advertising strategy relied on un-airbrushed, amateur models selected personally from local areas. The campaigns frequently stirred public debate, notably when a 62-year-old model was featured in 2012 or when Lower East Side store windows displayed mannequins with pubic hair. Charney defended these choices as a celebration of natural beauty and an attempt to challenge industry standards regarding photoshopped aesthetics.
Corporate Conflict and Termination
In June 2014, American Apparel suspended Charney, citing for-cause termination related to allegations of sexual harassment, assault, and misuse of corporate assets. He was formally removed from his chief executive role in December 2014. Charney contested the findings, describing the process as a biased coup by company leadership. Following his exit, he established Los Angeles Apparel, which includes production for Kanye West's Yeezy line.
Labor Practices and Scrutiny
Charney has faced significant criticism regarding workplace conditions. While he advocated for a global garment worker minimum wage, his own factories were subject to legal scrutiny. In 2020, public health officials ordered the closure of Los Angeles Apparel for flagrant infection control violations after hundreds of employees contracted COVID-19. Furthermore, internal agreements often required workers to sign away the right to public litigation in favor of mandatory arbitration.
Fast facts
- Born: 1969, Montreal, Canada
- Founder: American Apparel
- Founder: Los Angeles Apparel
- Education: Tufts University, Choate Rosemary Hall
- Key Business Location: Los Angeles
- Notable Marketing Strategy: Non-professional models
Questions readers ask
What happened to American Apparel?
The company filed for bankruptcy in 2015 after Charney's departure and years of financial and legal turmoil.
Is Dov Charney still working in fashion?
Yes, he founded Los Angeles Apparel, which continues to operate and produce clothing lines.
Achievements
- Educated at Tufts University and Choate Rosemary Hall
