Between 1928 and 1931, Austrian mountaineer Erwin Schneider broke the world record for the highest summit reached on three separate occasions. Born in 1906 in Jáchymov, he combined a career as a qualified mining engineer with a relentless commitment to high-altitude exploration and the development of sophisticated cartographic techniques across three continents.
Early Ascents and Altitude Records
Schneider participated in the 1928 Soviet-German expedition to the Pamir Mountains, where he completed the first ascent of Lenin Peak, then known as Kaufman Peak. In 1930, he joined Günter Dyhrenfurth’s expedition to Kangchenjunga. While the main peak remained unclimbed due to weather, Schneider made a solo ascent of Nepal Peak and partnered with Hermann Hoerlin for the first ascent of Jongsong Peak, securing his position as a preeminent altitude record holder.
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Led by Hans Kinzl, the 1932 Peruvian expedition saw Schneider complete the first ascent of Huascarán Sur. During this period, he also climbed Chopicalqui, Artesonraju, and Huandoy. In 1934, he joined an Austro-German attempt on Nanga Parbat. Caught in a severe storm at 7,480 meters, his party suffered heavy casualties. Schneider and Peter Aschenbrenner faced public criticism for their descent, though some observers later defended his conduct against politically motivated accusations.
Transition to Technical Cartography
Severe frostbite sustained on Piz Bernina in 1939 forced the amputation of his toes and parts of his feet, ending his serious climbing career. Schneider pivoted to professional survey work, collaborating with the German and Austrian Alpine Club. He produced numerous maps of Alpine regions, including the Wetterstein and Ötztal ranges, utilizing his specialized background in terrestrial photogrammetry.
Surveying the Himalaya
Joining the 1955 International Himalayan Expedition, Schneider produced the first detailed 1:25,000 scale map of Mount Everest. As Director of the Survey Team for the Association of Comparative Alpine Research from 1959 to 1974, he surveyed 11,000 square kilometers of Eastern Nepal, including the 1:50,000 Khumbu-Himal map. His later work included aerial surveys of the Kathmandu Valley and studies of the Lewis Glacier in Kenya.
Fast facts
- Born: 13 April 1906, Jáchymov
- Died: 18 August 1987, Lech
- Education: Technische Hochschule, Berlin (1934)
- First ascent of Lenin Peak: 25 July 1928
- First ascent of Huascarán Sur: 20 July 1932
- Specialization: Terrestrial photogrammetry
- Language proficiency: German and Slovenian
Questions readers ask
Why did Schneider stop climbing?
He suffered severe frostbite during a winter ascent of the Biancograt on Piz Bernina in 1939, resulting in the amputation of all his toes and the middle section of his foot.
What is his legacy in Nepal?
He produced foundational topographic maps, including the first detailed map of Mount Everest, which remain in use for research and regional economic development.
Achievements
- Recorded as mountaineer and cartographer
