The east arête of the 3,983-metre Meije in the Massif des Écrins range was conquered for the first time by Emil Zsigmondy, his brother Otto, and Ludwig Purtscheller on 26 July 1885. This ascent stands as one of the most significant achievements in the history of guideless Alpine climbing, occurring just days before Zsigmondy’s sudden death.
Early Pursuits and Training
Born in 1861 in Vienna to Hungarian parents, Adolf Zsigmondy and Irma von Szakmáry, Emil Zsigmondy developed an early aptitude for climbing. He began his mountaineering life as a teenager, notably completing a 26-hour round trip of the Reisseck alongside his brother Otto. By the late 1870s, the siblings frequently climbed without professional guides in the Zillertal Alps. Despite his intense focus on the mountains, he completed his medical education and graduated as a doctor of medicine in 1884.
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Zsigmondy was a prominent figure in the movement toward guideless Alpine exploration, frequently collaborating with his brother Otto and the mountaineer Ludwig Purtscheller. Their joint portfolio included the 1884 first traverse of the Marmolada, a guideless first ascent of Monte Civetta in August 1884, and the first guideless traverse of the Matterhorn. In September 1884, he also led the first ascent of the Bietschhorn south face with a team including Purtscheller and Karl Schulz.
Final Ascent and Legacy
On 6 August 1885, Zsigmondy attempted the south face of the Meije with his brother and Karl Schulz. He perished during this climb, likely due to a rope slipping off a rock surface. Following his death, his work regarding mountain safety, 'Die Gefahren der Alpen,' was published in 1885. He is remembered through the Zsigmondyspitze, the Brèche Zsigmondy, and the Zsigmondyhütte. His grave is located in the Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans cemetery.
Fast facts
- Born: 1861, Vienna
- Died: 6 August 1885, Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans
- Profession: Physician and mountaineer
- Citizenship: Hungarian
- Notable Book: Die Gefahren der Alpen (1885)
- Significant Ascent: East arête of the Meije (1885)
- Medical Qualification: Doctor of Medicine (1884)
Questions readers ask
How did Emil Zsigmondy die?
He died on 6 August 1885 while attempting to climb the south face of the Meije, likely after his rope slipped off a rock.
What medical degree did he hold?
He graduated as a doctor of medicine in 1884, one year before his death.
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